* Pictures noted below are bottom to top
Well, when we left the flat in Hong Kong we THOUGHT we were going to fly to Johannesburg, but as it turns out we were wrong. After our arrival to the Hong Kong International Airport, the Cathay Pacific ticket staff person told us there was a problem with Richard's passport. He didn't have any 'Visa' designated pages for South African Immigration to stamp. While he had 1 blank page at the back of his passport, it wasn't designated as a 'Visa' page which was an issue since South Africa had been historically very particular about just this point. As we checked in 2 hours ahead of the scheduled 11.45 pm flight, our attendant suggested faxing a copy of the blank passport page to South Africa to confirm if it would be acceptable. After waiting 1.5 hours, we were informed immigration would not accept the blank page which meant we would need to stay in Hong Kong another day to go to the American Consulate for additional Visa pages. At this point it was close to midnight. We were told there was room on the same flight the next day but we would need to make arrangements with One World (American Airlines) directly.
Although it didn't seem like much was going easily with this leg of the trip, we were lucky to be waiting in an airport area with internet capabilities so we could find an available hotel (or two) to call for a last (very last) minute reservation at a reasonable price somewhere close to the consulate in the Central district. After confirming a room at a Novotel in Wan Chai (district close to Central), we bought another ticket for the Airport Express 30 minute train ride back to Metro Central where we got a taxi to the hotel for check in. Finally in our room at about 12.45 am we called One World in the USA to change our tickets for the Johannesburg flight the next day (which was the same day at this point). Once done, we canceled our hotel in Cape Town and our connecting flight from Johannesburg to Cape Town. What a pain. Since there was nothing more to do until 9 am the next day it was time to get some sleep.
As planned we were outside the American Consulate (picture 1) by 9 am waiting to be cleared through the 2 stations of heavy security and instructed where to go for Visa/Passport services. Once in the right place, miracles of miracles, the process was very easy and painless. Richard completed a form and since we didn't have an appointment they apologized for the need to wait probably an hour to receive his amended passport at no charge. Amazingly by 9.45 am he had his passport and we were done.
We returned to the hotel to make new connecting flight arrangements from Johannesburg to Cape Town, caught up on computer work, and relaxed until check out at 2 pm. After that we just walked around the hotel area, had lunch at a nearby recommended Korean restaurant, and hung out for the long day of nothingness until our return to the Hong Kong International Airport and our flight to Johannesburg - again.
Thirteen hours later we arrived in Johannesburg. After another 1 hour flight we were at our final destination - rainy Cape Town where we picked up our rental car and started the drive to the apartment we rented for 1 week in the Vredehoek section of the city. While we got our directions a bit mixed up it turned out fine since in our confusion we found the neighborhood shopping mall with a great supermarket. We bought a few provisions, including wine, and then finally found the apartment. Once settled into our new 'home' we made a nice meal and enjoyed a good night's sleep.
First full day in Cape Town was raining and cool so we decided to visit the famous Waterfront area (picture 2) because downtown was closed off due to the opening of Parliament and a visit from their new President (Zuma) who was giving his first national speech. We spent the day discussing itinerary options for our South African visit with a number of the helpful staff at the Tourism Office, walked the shopping mall, enjoyed a delicious fresh seafood lunch at the Ocean Basket (seafood chain in Cape Town), and saw a movie.
The next day was raining again (typical winter weather in Cape Town) and since we needed to pick up the box of 'winter' clothes and hiking boots we previously shipped from Sydney (not needed in very hot Southeast Asia), we took a drive to Stellenbosch, the wine region about 40 minutes from Cape Town. We proceeded to the center of the lovely little downtown to pick up our stuff at the post office and have lunch at a fabulous Indian restaurant, Bakura, suggested from a friend who once lived in the area. Before returning back to the apartment we made a quick stop by Spier Wine Estate to pick up a package of prescriptions Richard sent to Andrew, the General Manager who was a friend of a friend kind enough to accept it on our behalf. While the weather was continuing to sour we drove back to Capetown for an easy evening at 'home'.
We encountered another day of lighter rain so we returned to Stellenbosch where we met Angus (picture 3), a new friend (introduced by a friend of Richard's) who showed us his beautiful bio-friendly ranch filled with more than 130 head of cattle, chickens, and hundreds of hectares of organic vineyards. Just amazing. He was kind enough to invite us into his earth-packed home for fresh muffins and suggestions for future travels north of South Africa. After a wonderful snack, good talk, restaurant suggestions, and travel specialist references we left to find Rust en Verde, his suggestion for lunch. It was nestled among lush rolling hills, mountains, and rows of winter vineyards. We were disappointed the beautiful restaurant was closed for lunch, but soon delighted to enjoy the set menu of Chateaubriand lunch, full glass of wine and free flight tasting in their cellar (picture 4). For the next 2 hours we enjoyed a most magical lunch with tables set among their stored bottles, votive candles, and heaters - wonderful experience for all of our senses.
The next day, we had a terrific opportunity to have a delicious lamb lunch with Jeremy (friend of a friend), Winemaker of Painted Wolf wines, and his wonderful family - Emma, Savannah, Oliver, and his mother Doreen (picture 5). They hosted us in their beautiful home in Paarl another area in wine country approximately 45 minutes from Cape Town. We had the best time - talked too much, laughed lots, and ate way too much of Jeremy's incredible cooking. We were stuffed while continuing to enjoy every mouthful. Before we knew it, we had stayed all day so we left to digest our meal and enjoyed a quiet night at the apartment.
Next couple of days the weather improved making one day a perfect time to enjoy the scenic coastal drive along the Atlantic Ocean around Table Mountain (pictures 6, 7) and ending in the great beach town of Camps Bay. Based on a recommendation from Richard's friend who lived in the area, we had lunch at a popular Nando's, informal place with amazing view of the beach and beyond (picture 8). After enjoying 2 hours of sun, people-watching and the delicious local specialties of peri peri chicken and grilled beef and vegetables hung on a skewer, we finally left for a movie at the waterfront and leisure night at the apartment.
One of the days We took advantage of bright sunny skies and drove along the coast (picture 9) through the great beach towns of Fish Hoek, Muzinburg, Simon Town, and The Boulders on False Bay where we stopped to visit the colony of about 3,000 African Penguins (picture 10). After watching the penguins sun bath, swim, and honk (sounding like their informal name 'jackass') we drove on to the Table Mountain National Park (7,750 hectares) at Cape Point (picture 11) and the Cape of Good Hope (picture 12) - the south tip of South Africa (picture 13) and easily one of the most beautiful places on earth. We couldn't stop commenting on the incredible diverse habitats ranging from rocky mountain tops (more than 200 meters above sea level at most southern point) to beaches and open seas - home to more than 250 species of birds, six floral kingdoms (1,100 species of indigenous plants), and wild animal life - including Springbok antelope (picture 14), ostriches (picture 15), and a busy group of Chacma Baboons (picture 16) walking along the road. We drove around the park, walked up to the Cape Point Lighthouse (picture 17), then enjoyed a tasty lunch at 'Two Oceans', a restaurant at the tip of Cape of Good Hope where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet.
On another perfectly clear day we took the 30 minute ferry ride from the waterfront to Robbens Island, the 518 hectare rocky outcrop in Table Bay where for almost 400 years colonial and apartheid rulers banished those regarded as political troublemakers or social outcasts of society. Once on the island we visited the prison house where Robert Sobukwe, leader of the Pan African Congress, was held in isolation; the Lime Quarry, Male Leper Church, 19th century lighthouse, WWII fortifications, various shipwrecks and the famous maximum security prison which held many South African political leaders including President Nelson Mandela who spent 18 of his 27 years of incarceration. After a bus ride around the island we took an informative tour of the prison by one of the ex-political prisoners (picture 18).
After our return to the waterfront we drove to the Gardens district to have lunch at the fancifully decorated Manna Epicure (picture 19). The all white interior including deco chandeliers, teapots dangling by ribbons and a big table topped with many beautifully decorated cakes and cupcakes created the perfect environment to enjoy a delicious lunch of butter chicken, hummus, marinated eggplant, mushrooms and a decadent piece of lemon meringue pie. We finished our meal in time to rush out and catch the last cable car to the top of Table Mountain. The circular car (picture 20) ascended effortlessly 10 meters per second with a rotating floor which made the ride to the top (1,085 meters at highest point) exciting as 360 degrees of incredible views overwhelmed us. Once on top we walked around the paths (picture 21), greeted the local dassies (picture 22) (Dutch for 'badger'), and watched the dramatic sun set over the city of Cape Town (picture 23) - just fabulous - clear views (picture 24), bright colors, and amazingly, no wind.
Other activities during our extended stay (we added 2 extra days) in Cape Town included an incredible chef's set lunch menu at the acclaimed La Colombe Restaurant at the Constantia Utilg wine estate (picture 25). A beautiful sunny setting outside in their courtyard made a perfect 4 course lunch with white and red wine even more wonderful. Also, while the weather stayed clear we were able to visit the famous Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden (picture 26). Considered one of the 'Seven Magnificent Botanical Gardens of the World", it's 528 hectares of cultivated gardens and natural reserve on the eastern slopes of Cape Town's magnificent Table Mountain were just a wonderful sight to see.
Our time in Cape Town seemed to come to a quick close and while we were reluctant to leave we were excited about the prospect of moving our experience of good food and wines to Stellenbosch and Franschhoek in the wine region for a few days.
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