Saturday, August 15, 2009

Italian Dolomites - Just Amazing!










































* Pictures noted are bottom to top - Our original plan as we left Umbria was to stay overnight in Cortina d'Ampezzo in the Italian Delomiti as a pass-through for our ultimate destination in Austria.

After 6 1/2 hours driving we arrived at the end of the autostrada and the beginning of La Provincia di Belluno - the Dolomiti region of Italy. Here the scenery became dramatically beautiful (picture 1) - valleys SO bright green it hurt our eyes to view and the most spectacular mountains and peaks we had ever seen. As we continued our drive to Cortina (still more than 30 kms away), we became more concerned about the increasing heavy traffic since we didn't think it necessary to make hotel reservations and it was already 6 pm. By 6.30 pm we stopped at an open information office in the small town of Valle de Cadaro where we were informed about the August peak tourist season in the Dolomite area. Miraculously the information staff person secured an accommodation for us at the Villa Gaia, a recently opened (1 month) hotel, in the next town of Venas di Cad. We knew the 'travel gods' were once again with us when we drove up to this charming establishment and had a warm greeting by the owner, Sara. Not only was this hotel designed ecologically 'green', beautifully decorated and appointed...it also had free internet! (picture 2) Since it was so new, we were once again spoiled being the only guests.

Once settled into our room we sat on the terrace overlooking one of the majestic mountains (picture 3) to watch as the illuminating sunset light danced on it's peaks. We were in heaven and at that point decided we had to stay another day. After the sunset, we went to dinner at La Chiusa per Sara's suggestion conveniently located only 1-2 kms away.

At dinner we were greeted by wonderful Debra who gratefully spoke English (she lived in Canada for a year) and helped us make some delicious menu and wine selections. Since Debra was also the chef's sister, her knowledge of the dishes was invaluable. With her guidence we thoroughly enjoyed as our first shared plate beet filled raviolis and tagliatelle with rabbit ragu; second plate was marinated venison with sauteed local mushrooms; desert (which we didn't want to do, but....) was an amazing apple strudel; and to top everything off we drank this wonderful, very light after dinner drink that tasted like Proseco with a slight orange flavor (so good we bought a bottle for some other time)...and then she treated us (Susan) to a shot glass of pine and flower infused grappas. After we rolled to the car we stopped to watch the full moon rise over the jagged mountain peaks - just magical.

Next day was again beautifully clear and sunny. After enjoying Sara's delicious breakfast including a freshly baked cake, we took her suggestion and drove to the village of Cibiana di Cadore. This village is famous for the large, colorful murals by various artists on the exteriors of many of town's commercial and residential structures. In addition to the murals, Cibiana is home of the spectacular Mt Rule, 2181 meters. We took the 30 minute trip on one of the four shuttle vans from the center of town to the parking area at the top of Mt Rule. Once there we visited the Meiner Mountain Museum ('highest museum in the world' inspired by the famous Dolomite mountaineer) and hiked around to better appreciate the breath taking 360 degree views. Needless to say, we were just overwhelmed with the fantastic sights. (pictures 4, 5, 6, 7, 8)

To end a perfect day, we decided to return to La Chiusa for another wonderful dinner. Debra and her sister didn't disappoint us with an amazing gazpacho to start, tortellinis filled with rabbit for first plate and slow roasted leg of pig, roasted potatoes and spinach for plate two. Since we were so full, we declined dessert and returned to the hotel stuffed, but very happy.

After another great breakfast we said our good byes to Sara and her husband Reni and were back on the road again. We were on our way to Austria, but decided to go through the beautiful town of Auronzo di Cadore (suggested by Debra) (picture 9) and Cordina d'Azzero since we hadn't seen it yet. Again, the magnificent vistas called for many picture-taking stops (pictures 10, 11). Soon with all our stopping we were beginning to run late and chose to delay a visit to Cortina to another time and instead stopped for lunch in the lovely resort town of Dobbico just outside the Austrian border, then continued to Brenner Pass and on to our destination in Oberhofen, Austria.

1 comment:

Unknown said...

Thank you very much for your fantastic description of our territory and specily of our restaurant
Staff from restaurant La Chiusa