* Pictures noted are from bottom to top - After a long two-day road trip with an overnight stop in the town of Valence, we finally arrived in the very busy beach town of San Sebastian, Spain. Since we hadn't confirmed the route we were taking until the last minute, we unfortunately didn't add in extra time to visit any of the beautiful wine regions of Burgundy, Rhone, and Languedoc which disappointed us.
Once in San Sebastian we again got lost among the congested streets filled with heavy traffic and beach-clad pedestrians. After receiving some help we found our hotel, Leku Eder, quietly nestled on top of Monte Igueldo. From the terrace of our room we enjoyed the peaceful sights and sounds of the crashing waters of the sea below and the majestic mountain above topped with a funicular, working 19th century lighthouse (created a strobe light in our room each night) and ancient tower (picture 1).
After settling in it was getting late enough (past 9 pm when most people eat in Spain) to have dinner at a popular local restaurant recommended by the hotel and conveniently located just up the road. After ordering what Richard found interesting to eat from other people's plates (since none of these delicious goodies were on the Spanish-only menu) we enjoyed a wonderful, relaxing meal.
Our days in San Sebastian usually started at 4 am with loud, constant crowing from the hotel's neighborhood gang of roosters. After trying to go back to sleep for a few more hours, we would finally wake up, have breakfast, and by mid morning be ready to board the city bus that conveniently stopped outside our hotel. The short 1/2 hour ride would take us to a central stop downtown near the beaches and start of Old Town. From here we would begin a full day of walking, exploring, and enjoying the local delicacies of tapas (or pintxos as known in this Basque region), grilled fish, and regional wines.
Few of the sights visited included the 16th century Iglesia de San Viente (picture 2), 18th century Santa Maria del Coro basilica (picture 3), 19th century Town Hall which used to be a casino before gambling was outlawed (picture 4), Plaza de la Constitucion (picture 5) in Old Town; Monte Urgull home to 16th century fortress of Santa Cruz de la Mota (picture 6) and a huge statue of Christ (picture 7); the 19th century Cathedral (with 246 ft high tower) (picture 8); the La Concha (picture 9) and Ondarreta beaches, and adjacent beach area, home to a series of 3 huge sculptures by Eduardo Chillida of rust-colored claws in grey rock strategically placed in the sea and appropriately named 'The Comb of the Winds' (picture 10). Just wonderful days, beautiful sights, and interesting historical elements throughout this unique area.
In addition to our visits to downtown, one afternoon we treated ourselves to a lunch at Akelare (picture 11), one of three 3-star Michelan restaurants in San Sebastian. Highlights of our tasting menus (we each chose a different one) included specialties of the region - crab salad, prawns and french beans cooked in 'Orujo' fire, wild mushrooms and 'Egg Pasta', sole, roasted baby pig; little pearls and porous of foie gras and toasted peanut bread (picture 12), mollusks, vegetable ravioli, red mullet, loin of lamb, and incredible cheeses and desserts to finish. A 3 hour extravaganza - impeccable food and wine 'paired' with the 180-degree breathtaking views of the sea.
To top off our memorable San Sebastian visit, we decided on one especially clear and beautiful evening to drive 3 kms up the mountain from our hotel to what was known as the 'best' sunset viewing spot on Monte Igueldo. No sooner were we in place, the huge, bright sun slowly and dramatically started to set. We watched in awe as this beautiful evening light gently caressed the rolling hills, horses, sheep, and glistening sea before gradually disappearing behind a pink horizon (picture 13). What an incredible sight!
Unfortunately our time in San Sebastian came to a quick end. We were back on the road continuing our journey along the northern coast to Bilbao.
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