Thursday, October 8, 2009

Cappadocia, Turkey - Fantasy Land of Caves and Fairy Chimmneys















































* Pictures noted are bottom to top - After our short 1 hour flight from Istanbul we arrived at the tiny Nevsehir airport within the Cappadocia region. Once through baggage claim we and 10 other passengers were escorted by our driver to an awaiting van for transport to our hotel in Urgup. After about 45 minutes of straight driving, various hotel stops for everyone but us were made. At the next and final stop, we were delivered to the organizing travel agency's office for a review of our 2-day itinerary. Finally in another van we were driven on a desolate highway with rolling rocky vistas sprinkled with a few of those 'sexy' fairy chimney's until we were dropped off at top of a small 'street' in the middle of a quiet, almost deserted, slightly run-down stone village. Without seeing a hotel we were beginning to wonder where we were and if we had made some terrible mistake. Without any other options we rolled our luggage down this steep street about 150 yards to a set of large stone steps and a sign indicating the Gamirasu Cave Hotel. Once we climbed up to the main level we entered a magical Cappadocia cave paradise chiseled out of the hillside (picture 1).

A waiting hotel staff person graciously greeted and offered us something to drink. That's when we realized we were hungry and she said they would ask the kitchen to 'make a light something' for us to eat while we waited for our room to be ready. Within minutes after we sat down at one of the lovely tables overlooking the rose garden, our 'light' lunch arrived - a huge salad with fresh tomatoes, onions, peppers; Turkish grilled cheese 'tortilla'; and sauteed meat in tomato sauce topped with fried egg - we were delighted and overwhelmed at the same time (picture 2). Unfortunately everything was just delicious!

After lunch as promised our room was ready. Though Richard had to watch his head through a few doorways, the cut-out space - bedroom (with queen-sized bed and satin sheets), bathroom, and sitting area - were not only cozy and very comfortable, it was spacious and just downright fabulous (picture 3). We felt like trolls living the high life. We even had decent wifi connection!

We enjoyed a little down-time in our wonderful cave dwelling before going to dinner. The dining room was warmed by a blazing fire as we were graciously led to one of the few available tables. Their fixed menu (which changed every night), included soup, salad, main entree, and desert. All items were from authentic Turkish recipes and made with fresh, local products. We enjoyed every wonderful bite.

With full and happy stomachs we returned to our room for some reading and a good night's sleep. While the night passed quietly, even in this obscure village the persistent early pre-dawn sounds of the morning's 'call to prayer' still drifted into our room. A couple of hours later we ate a nice buffet breakfast before our 9.30 am pick up by the travel agency who organized our first tour day (first organized tour since Peru).

In the company of 7 other people we spent a full day visiting the picturesque Devrent imagination valley (natural lunar-like historic volcanic tuffa landscape) (picture 4), Zelve open-air museum (houses carved in rock, Seljukian mosque and remains from 4th and 14th BC civilizations) (picture 5), Pasaaglari (aka 'General's Garden' an area populated with various shaped fairy chimneys - hard lava caps on eroded tuffa pinnacles) (picture 6), Avanos (known for it's pottery with demonstration of the Hittite pottery wheel technique) (picture 7), Pigeon Valley (high caves with pigeon houses and past/current culture that supports farming the pigeons), Uchisar rock-castle, Estenepe (panoramic view of Goreme valley) (picture 8), and the Goreme open-air museum (rock cut churches, well-preserved frescoes (picture 9), monasteries including physical evidence of wine making activities).

Again delicious meal and a wonderful surprise. We literally bumped into Sasha, a woman from Dubai, we had the pleasure of speaking with at our Chang Mai Thai Cooking Class 3 months ago. We were amazed at the coincidence meeting up of all places, in this tiny cave hotel in the middle of no where. What a very small world!

After catching up with Sasha and her friend Christine we enjoyed a good night's sleep before the start of another long tour day. As luck would have it, since we were the only ones for our guide, Saleem, and the driver, we were able to suggest the content and set the pace. We visited Kaymakli (amazing underground city - with 5 floors of stables, kitchens, wineries, living quarters, etc.) (picture 10), Soganli valley (walking tour visiting village of fresco decorated church and monastery caves cut out of the hillsides) (picture 11), Sobessos (ancient Byzantium city just discovered 2 years ago and still under intense excavation included Roman baths, mosaics, basilica, etc. - unfortunately no pictures were allowed).

After another great dinner and breakfast we were driven by the hotel shuttle to the bus terminal where we boarded the bus for the long 8 hour ride to Antalya, Turkey.

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