* Pictures noted are bottom to top - After we successfully navigated out of Antayla we started our 5 hour road trip to Finike driving between the edge of the sea and the beautiful pine tree clad mountains.
By mid afternoon we took a detour from Mountain Highway 400 and drove instead 10km down a winding road to the bohemian-type village of Chimaera. We found a quiet restaurant in a nice, tented garden setting to enjoy a light lunch of cheese sandwich, huge fresh tomato salad, and fresh squeezed pomegranate juice. After lunch we drove on to the Chimaera car park where we hiked a short, steep climb up to the first set of natural flames (picture 1). It was an incredible natural phenomenon to witness especially since these fires (though smaller now) have been burning consistently in Chimaera since ancient times.
Once back in the car we returned to the highway and continued our drive to Finike over the mountains and down to the sea. The views consisted mostly of covered greenhouses (for tomatoes, eggplants, etc.) and citrus groves with a few ancient structures thrown in for character. When we finally arrived in the town of Finike we were very 'under-whelmed' since it was small, dusty and very basic (though it had a nice marina) and wondered what our friend Cengiz had been thinking sending us here. Per our instructions we called the B&B for more specific directions and within minutes we drove at the end of a narrow dirt road where the beautiful oasis of L'Orangearie - Villa Portakal was nestled within a lush orange grove.
This lovely B&B with 6 comfortably appointed guest rooms, large pool with relaxing sitting areas,large umbrellas, and private romantic eating areas along the river created an idyllic setting amid orange, lemon, and pomegranate trees. Our gracious host and hostess, Gerard and Mireille (both French living in Turkey for more than 20 years) made sure our every need was met. Since we were the only guests we were able to stay in a wonderful room with a terrace overlooking the pool, river, orchards, and mountains (picture 2) with unobstructed view of the night's full moon (picture 3).
After settling in and relaxing, Gerard informed us dinner was served at 8 pm (dinner and breakfast was included in our package). At that time we were escorted to a beautifully set table next to the river with music playing (American jazz) - it was just so romantic - candles and moonlight. On our first night we were served delicious stuffed eggplant, slow cooked chicken with olives and lemon, and walnut stuffed figs in syrup with cream.
After a wonderful night's sleep we woke up to a beautiful day and a delicious breakfast at our own table pool side including real coffee (from France, not Nescafe), homemade jams, fresh orange juice, Turkish pastries, tomatoes/cucumbers, cheeses, olives, etc (picture 4). We started our road trip for the day into forested, then naked mountains (picture 5) (measuring over 3,000 meters) to the town of Elimali (neat architecture and winding streets) then per Gerard's suggestion, the impressive 5th century Lycian/Roman ruins of Aryconda. On a steep pine clad slop we visited the remains of tombs, baths (picture 6) and a wonderfully preserved amphitheater (picture 7). As incredible as it seemed, and as Gerard predicted, we only saw 4 other tourists during our hour-plus visit making for a peaceful viewing of the site and enjoyment of the incredible views.
For lunch we again took Gerard's suggestion to go to a very local restaurant, Altintas Piknik, hidden down a dirt road off the main highway and under an umbrella of trees along a lovely mountain stream. Just a wonderful setting to relax and enjoy some local Turkish cuisine (we were the only foreigners). Since it was getting late we decided to order light - a fresh tomato salad, grilled fish, and a kabob. Reality however was very different as the plates of extra food keep coming - delicious hot flat bread (1 each), cheese and walnuts, roasted sweet onions, roasted tomatoes and garlic cloves, and chips (fries). Then of course came our salad, fish, kebobs (picture 8). We were so stuffed we had to graciously decline the plate of cheese and fresh fruits. To make this more amazing we were only charged for the original items we ordered which was about $20 USD the rest was included.
Once back at the B&B in Finike we rested and enjoyed just hanging out on our terrace until dinner which again was just outstanding (stuffed pastry with sun dried tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, seasoning (picture 9); Turkish beef stew covered with mashed potatoes, yogurt cake) with the full moon as an added bonus to another wonderful, romantic evening.
Next day was again beautifully clear and sunny as we drove to Ugagiz on the spectacularly dramatic coastal highway. With Gerard's help we met Mehmet the wonderful captain of the private gullet we hired for the day. We enjoyed swimming and snorkeling (picture 10) in many of the private coves with crystal blue-clear to the bottom-cool waters and viewing all the ancient Lycian and Roman ruins, like the Lycian tombs on the hillside and waters (picture 11) that surrounded us both on land and in the sea (sunken city ruins) around the island of Kekova, Simena (technically an isolated pennisula only accessible by boat), and other isolated islands. Mid-day we stopped at the small but quaint village of Simena (picture 12) for a walk up to a castle built in the Middle Ages and then back down for a marvelous pre-arranged lunch (by Gerard) of fresh grilled fish (from the waters around the island) and tomato salad.
Once back at the harbor, we hated to leave but also enjoyed our return drive back to Finike. Along the gorgeous coastal highway we stopped to appreciate a few more sea views as well as the numerous hillsides of olive trees thrive stubbornly in layers of hard rocks (picture 13). What a fabulous day of sun, beautiful waters, and incredible sights! Once again dinner (fish appetizer, lamb stew on a bed of pureed eggplant, fresh fruit parfait) and the moon back at the B&B was just as wonderful as it had been the nights before which made it a perfect close to a most terrific day.
Though the next morning was again sunny and warm we decided to stay at the B&B to finish plans for our upcoming Middle-Eastern trip, swim, lounge, and read. After a light lunch at the marina in downtown Finike, Richard joined Gerard on a visit to Lycia, the former ancient capital of the Lycian Confederacy, located only 15 minutes away from the B&B. This site among a beautiful pomegranate grove was host to many ancient Lycian tombs on the surrounding hills as well Roman baths, a theater, tombs (picture 14) and a flowing mountain spring over one of the remaining Roman roads. In addition to these, a number of spectacular Lycian 'house tombs' beautifully chiseled out of the adjacent cliffs were also a sight to enjoy (picture 15).
After another terrific evening including our last fabulous dinner with a large moon, we returned to our room to pack and get a good night's sleep. The next morning we returned to the road for our continuation along the beautiful Turquoise Coast to our next stop - Gocek, Turkey.
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