* Pictures noted are bottom to top - We left Petra via the scenic King's Highway with passing views of high plateaus and the Jordan Rift Valley below. Rugged country including brown sandstone cliffs and rock formations as well as desert scenes with many huge rocks and mesa-like islands of stone similar to Southern Utah were a regular sight (picture 1).
After an 1.5 hours we arrived to the desert of Wadi Rum and our camp, fully equipped with 'Bedouin-style' shade tents for meals and socializing; small individual tents (picture 2) each with a double bed (some have 3 beds), 1/2 sheet (don't know why it was so small), blanket, 2 pillows, and small towels for overnight sleepers; and finally toilet and shower facilities a little too far for easy night access.
As these camps go, ours was considered one of the better ones (in terms of service, accommodations, food) and quite large (300 person overnight capacity) though we were lucky to have visIted when there were only 8 other people (we heard they were sold out for next few nights). With Ashrif's help we were introduced to the Camp Manager (he was from Egypt) who showed us around and gave us information regarding our 4 hour sunset jeep ride and the next morning's 5 hour sunrise camel ride.
Since we arrived while they were serving a fresh grilled buffet to a number of tour bus guests we decided to join in for what turned out to be a very nice authentic Jordanian lunch (mixed grill, hummus, assorted salads, flat bread, and oranges).
After lunch we rested for only an hour before we met our Bedouin driver and throwing safety to the wind, climbed into the back bed of his beat-up 4x4 Toyota pick up fully equipped with questionable 'padded' benches bolted to the floor and sides (Ashrif sat inside the cab with the driver) - not exactly OSHA regulated.
Within minutes we began our amazing drive into the heart of the desert (picture 3). As we stood holding onto the padded roll bar (since no one else with us), we were intoxicated by all the colors and sights - endless, rippled, multi-colored (red and gold) sand (picture 4), rock formations and of course the changing colors of the wonderful sunset that was soon to come (picture 5). We made a number of stops for making angels in the sand (picture 6) and others where Ashrif translated information from the driver and encouraged us, with assistance, to climb a number of dramatic rock ledges (one with carved writings) (picture 7), cliffs and 'bridges' (created by weather-beaten large holes in the rocks)(picture 8).
Once the sun began to set, our driver found a beautiful viewing spot. While we sat and watched, he gathered a few rocks and some dried branches of a desert bush to make a fire, then boiled water in his teapot and made us some delicious black tea with dried sage (picture 9). So wonderfully peaceful.
By the time we returned to camp it was dark and the dinner buffet was being served to the other night guests as well as a few bus tourists. By lamp light we enjoyed another grilled feast accompanied by lovely Jordanian music. The mood was relaxed and beautifully accented by the illuminated rocks overlooking the camp. After dinner the music became more lively and the Camp Manager was inviting people up to a circle at the center of the eating/social area to dance (picture 10). Of course no one did, so Susan pulled Richard and Ashrif with her as she jumped in. Once up we tried to follow the dance steps demonstrated by the camp staff. Before we knew it everyone else followed to join in the laughing and fun. Soon Susan was pulled into the center of the dancing circle by one of the camp staff. While she tried to keep up with her dancing partner's twirls and steps without making too much of a fool of herself, Richard took some pictures.
When the dancing music finally stopped and the tour bus groups were gone the camp mellowed out with just the sounds of some quiet talking and background music. Ashrif then surprised us with the popular Middle Eastern version of an 'after dinner drink', an order of 'hubby-bubbly', a water pipe with fruit (ours was apple) infused tobacco (very light) which you don't taste as much as the refreshing feeling and slight tingling taste of fruit left in your mouth (picture 11). It was so relaxing and a wonderful way to finish off the night.
Before going back to our tent, Ashrif took us for a drive away from camp lights for some star gazing. What a night - a beautiful half moon, twinkling stars, and a gentle, warm desert breeze brushing over our skin. The sound of the silence was deafening, except for a rolling plastic bag that sounded like footsteps in the road.
Soon we returned to the camp and our tent for some rest before going on our camel ride at 6 am. When we woke up at 5.45 am Ashrif was already at our tent to hand us our 2 packed breakfasts and make sure we had enough water. He then led us to the outskirts of the camp tents to meet our Bedouin guide who had a family of camels waiting for us (1 Dad, 1 Mom, and 2 youngsters). Richard took the Dad camel and Susan, the Mom.
We mounted the camel's hump which was covered with a wooden form including two wooden handles (1 in front, 1 in back) all covered by blankets and saddle for 'comfort'. We were instructed to sit semi-side saddle with one leg dangling and the other wrapped around the front handle. After learning how to mount the camels, next lesson included how to hang on while the camel got up from his knees in a 2 part, front-then-back motion.
While we held on to the 'reins' (ropes tied around their necks) our guide walked behind us as we proceed with the camel family (youngsters were each attached either to Mom or Dad by a rope) through the crisp morning air and glistening stars to an area of the desert somewhere near his camp. At this point we got off the camels to enjoy the beginning bright colors of sunrise while our guide walked to his camp to get 6 more camels that he herded (on foot) through at least half of the trip.
Once back on the camels (picture 12) we quietly wandered through miles of dramatic desert scenes of golden sand and fantastic rock formations (picture 13). The quiet sounds of the desert winds were all we heard except for our guide's periodic clicking to get the camels moving. After about 3.5 hours we stopped at a lovely spot to again enjoy some tea with sage and eat breakfast (picture 13). Our Bedouin guide was funny and enjoyed talking about his life in the desert 'hard but very good and one he couldn't image ever leaving'. Seeing Susan enjoyed riding and handled the camel well he gave her the Daddy camel to ride back as well as an offer that she join him in his life in the desert which she politely declined.
With another mile or so to camp, Richard lost patience with the ride (it was too long for him) and got off to walk (with the guide) while Susan enjoyed a good trot back (and paid for it later when she couldn't sit down so comfortably). Ashrif looked a little worried when he just saw Susan, but then was relieved when Richard came into view behind.
Needless to say after our camel ride, we were ready to pack up and leave for our next stop, the cool shores of the Red Sea in Aqaba, Jordan.
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