Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Chaing Mai - Thailand's Wonderful Northern Delight




















































































* Pictures noted are bottom to top

After a long day of flying from Siem Reap, Cambodia to Bangkok, Thailand and Bangkok to Chaing Mai, we finally arrived at our hotel early evening. We decided to relax, dined in, and enjoyed a quiet night.

Next day we were picked up early by Om, a staff person from the Chaing Mai Cookery School, the first established school in Chaing Mai. We proceeded to the main office to pay, then boarded vans with the other 15 students from all over the world for the 20 minute ride out of town to the suburban site of the cooking school.

When we arrived we were asked to sit in the air-conditioned classroom where we received instructions on making curry paste (picture 1), the basic Thai ingredient for 2 of the 6 dishes we would cook. After the demonstration/instruction session we were dismissed to our cooking stations to cook (picture 2), then eat. This procedure was followed for all six courses we cooked. Delicious recipes included Panaeng Curry with Pork, Chaing Mai Curry with Chicken, Fried Fish with Chili and Basil, Sweet and Sour Vegetables, Spicy Glass Noodle Salad, and Black Sticky Rice Pudding. Needless to say, at the end of the 6 hour day, we were tired, stuffed but happy to know that because of the class, we were going to enjoy great Thai cooking (by us) wherever we have a kitchen.

By the end of the hot van ride back to town, we returned to the hotel to cool down, enjoy dinner,then do some computer work and read before calling it a day.

On our second full day, we were met by our cheerful driver, Josh, who was also our taxi driver when we arrived. We left the city and drove through the mountainous, lush green, countryside. Our first stop was a visit to the famous Elephant Camp. We arrived in time for the start of the 45 minute show where the elephants were taken through their paces - dancing, putting/taking off their trainer's hat, rolling over, making noises, kicking soccer balls (picture 3), and inconceivably painting some beautiful pictures with their trunks! (picture 4) After the show, we 'boarded' our 48 year old elephant (picture 5) for an hour ride to the Long Neck Village. The actual ride really was only 15-20 minutes if we didn't take so many stops for elephant eating, drinking, and bathing.

Once at the Long Neck Village we walked around and while we saw many water buffalos grazing in the rice paddies (picture 6), we didn't see any of the traditional 'Long Neck' people often pictured wearing numerous necklaces. Instead, we did see a few women in traditional costume (picture 7) selling locally produced merchandise.

We met up with Josh again outside the village entrance to continue our travels. Next stop was a popular orchid/butterfly reserve. Unfortunately we didn't see many interesting butterflies, but we did enjoy all the uniquely colored orchids (picture 8).

It was getting close to lunch, so per Josh's suggestion we enjoyed a buffet in an air-conditioned restaurant at the famous Tiger Kingdom where tigers roam almost free and people pay to take pictures playing with them. We decided not to play, but instead enjoyed watching the trainers exercise them with a stick of bamboo leaves and an open pool (picture 9). They looked like a couple of harmless very big house cats batting the leafy toy while jumping in and out of the cool water.

Unfortunately we needed to move on to our next stop - the local umbrella 'factory' (picture 10). We were mesmerized as we walked and learned the full process one work station at a time. Construction included stringing the bamboo under structure together (picture 11), making the raw paper, pasting it to the top of the under structure, then of course, painting the beautiful designs. Just amazing! Per Richard's suggestion, since we were 'luggage-challenged', we bought a few fans instead.

Back in the car, Josh drove us to a silver/gem factory where we again enjoyed another educational tour of the process of creating beautiful, locally produced jewelry. Stations included carving jade, forming silver, and setting various gems into rings and necklaces. Needless to say, it was tough leaving the showroom without some major purchase.

Continuing on the artisan theme, we then stopped at a wonderful silk factory Josh again suggested where the silk process began with the demonstration of spinning the silk from the cocoons (picture 12) and weaving the finished dyed silk into amazing fabrics. Just beautiful works of art.

As the day drew to an end, we asked Josh to take us to the beautiful pagoda, Wat Phrathat Doi Suthep Rajvoravihara (pictures 13, 14) that overlooked Chaing Mai at its' highest peak (picture 15). Since it was at the end of the day, there weren't many people so peace and tranquility was easy to find everywhere - in the temples, on the benches, or just looking out on the amazing views. It was wonderful.

We returned to the hotel hot but satisfied so we enjoyed a light dinner and went to our room for the night.

Next day we were on our own so decided to 'feel' the city by walking into the old town - the streets behind the ancient brick walls (picture 16). Under the very late morning hot sun, we walked the windy, clean, and not overly 'vehicle-congested' streets, visited a number of temples including Pan On and Chedi Luang (pictures 17, 18, 19), viewed local specialities from the street vendors including roasted insects (picture 20) and even some grilled chicken delights (picture 21) which we decided to sample. All was good until we learned that the chicken tasties we were eating were in fact not chicken meats, but chicken 'bottoms' which made us quickly lose interest in any further samplings.

We returned to the hotel, again hot, but in time to change into our bathing suits and enjoy the cool waters of the hotel pool overlooking the city (picture 22). Just heaven. After a short time we returned to our room to shower, change and go to dinner at a local restaurant. After dinner we walked the rows of the famous night market viewing everything from locally produced merchandise to fake Tiffany jewelry. We returned to the hotel, did a little computer work, and enjoyed a good night's sleep.

In the morning we packed and met our taxi for the short trip to the airport. We were on our way to Bangkok.

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