Sunday, May 17, 2009

Ho Chi Minh City Where Old and New Converge













































































* Pictures noted are bottom to top

After picking up Susan's dress/skirt we took a 45 minute taxi from Hoi An Ancient Town to the Danang Airport for our flight to Ho Chi Minh City.

Once arrived we took a taxi in crazy late rush hour traffic (picture 1) to the beautiful/historic Rex Hotel conveniently located in central downtown HCM City (picture . We enjoyed a late meal on the roof (picture 2) previously the site of US daily press briefings during the Vietnam War, but now a magical place (picture 3) to overlook the new, modern plaza, Town Hall and Opera House below (picture 4).

Next day we were up early to meet our guide, Quang, and driver for a city tour in the morning and 1.5 hour drive to the Cu Chi tunnels in the afternoon. The very interesting, long and sobering day began with a short tour of the beautiful, Eiffel-designed Central Post Office (picture 5) then a stop at the Reunification Palace (picture 6). The historical significance of this site was the fact it was the main South Vietnamese office/operations and bunker (in the basement) during the war as well as the President's residence. It was also where the conflict between North and South came to a dramatic end when the Russian and Chinese made tanks stormed the main gates (picture 7) causing an unconditional surrender from South Vietnam in 1975.

After the Palace, we proceeded to the War Remenants Museum where graphic war pictures, actual articles of war (shells, guns, bombs, etc), war machines (tanks, planes, helicopters) (picture 8) and replications of the prision system including the South Vietnamese tiger cages and torture techniques were on painful display.

The Central Market was a nice change to the somber nature of the museum. We walked through rows in this large, indoor market where everything was on display and available for purchase. Per suggestion of some fellow travelers from Australia we sought out and purchased some 'weasel' coffee which we were assured was delicious in spite of the beans being eaten and expelled by weasels.

We then had a lunch downtown with Quang where We enjoyed lengthy conversations about the war, his experience growing up with it (he was 10 years old), changes in life and the area since reunification. We then returned to our car for the 60 km drive to Cu Chini, home of the legendary underground tunnel network utilized by the VC during the war. On the way we stopped briefly to view oozing rubber latex from acres of rubber trees finally regrown in this previous war torn area (picture 9).

Once at the tunnel site we were astonished to view the 250 km long network of tunnels connecting command posts, hospitals, shelter and weapon factories that sustained the VC during the conflict. Dug out of hard laterite by simple hand tools, this extent of this incredible network was known during the war, but never uncovered (picture 10).

After the tunnel tour we returned car for the long ride back to the hotel where we rested, walked to a local Indian restaurant then returned for computer work and sleep. Soon enough another full touring day began early the next morning after breakfast when we once again met Quang and our driver for the 2 hour drive to the Mekong Delta area in the southwest region of Vietnam.

Half way to the Mekong we made a 'happy room' stop at a nice tourist site equipped with western-styled, clean bathrooms, gift shop, and beautiful grounds including a 'monkey' bridge.

An hour later at the busy dock in Cai Be our private boat awaited us with River Guide, Chi, (picture 11) and a Boatman. As the boat quietly chugged along the upper portion of the Mekong River the gentle breeze was a welcome relief to the otherwise very warm and sweaty conditions. Our travels took us through the busy floating market (picture 12), regular boat traffic with locals who live on the River (picture 13), wedding parties (picture 14), and tour groups.

At the first stop in this Minh Island region, we disembarked to visit a rice paper and candy factory. Chi explained the process of each station as the village locals made rice paper (picture 15) and popcorn-type candies (picture 16). At the conclusion of our tour we sat down for some delicous local green/jasmine tea and fresh factory-made snacks. Needless to say the natural, fresh taste of everything made it necessary to buy one of each.

We returned to the boat and began to move through the dense and intricate network of canals
along the River (picture 17). After a short time we left the boat for a wonderful, romantic, homemade lunch at one of the home farms in Coi Cuong. The location was idyllic and the food was plentiful, delicious and all produced from the home garden and/or River. The menu included fried elephant fish with greens and rice paper (picture 18), Vietnamese spring rolls, shrimp, vegetable soup, grilled pork, rice, and fresh island fruits.

While we were so relaxed we returned to the shade and breezes of the boat to enjoy more of the peaceful canals. Our next stop was at the first home opened for tourists in 1990 and included a bonsai garden, elephant fish, python and of course homemade rice wine. After a shot or two of wine (picture 19) we also enjoyed some local green tea, pieces of refreshing jack fruit and mango.

We returned to the boat where Chi surprised us with fresh coconut milk (picture 20)- directly from the coconuts- and more island fruits for the remaining ride to Vinh Long where we disembarked for our return drive over the brand new Australian-partnered My Thuan Bridge (picture 21) to Ho Chi Minh City.

Once returned to the hotel, we enjoyed another quiet night at a local cafe for dinner and good night's sleep before our flight to Siem Reap, Cambodia the next morning.

1 comment:

Amalia said...

Hi Susan and Richard!
Just a note to tell you that I really appreciate your writing about your fabulous travels! I love stopping by every few days and see what adventures you are having! The photos are great! xoxo Amalia