Thursday, May 14, 2009

Hue and Hoi An - History and Relaxation





































































































* pictures noted are bottom to top

As we left the hotel in Hanoi the skies exploded with rains, thunder, and lightning making the trip to the airport a real 'nail bitter' (picture 1). But with the clever maneuvering of our driver we arrived on time for our 1 hour flight to Hue.

Upon arrival we went directly the Hotel Saigon Morin. The hotel was elegantly appointed in a colonial French style (picture 2). We spent the rest of the day resting at the pool, had a vigorous foot massage, then enjoyed an authentic Vietnamese dinner downtown before going back to the hotel for emails and sleep.

Next day, with our local guide, Ann, and driver we proceeded to the first of many important historical landmarks. The timing of our outing couldn't be better as all sites were decorated to celebrate Buddha's birthday.

Our first stop, The Citadel, was the imperial headquarters of the two first Nguyen dynasties. It was located in the city on the left bank of Huong (Perfume) River and extended over 520 hectares (pictures 3, 4, 5). It was fascinating to learn about the lives of the kings, queens,concubines, and locals who lived among the buildings, artifacts, and grounds more than 150 years ago.

The next site we visited was the Thien Mu Pagoda or "the Pagoda of the Heavenly Lady" which was considered the sanctuary of Buddhism, built in 1601 (picture 6). In one of the buildings on the Pagoda grounds we viewed a Buddhist prayer session to commemorate Buddha's birthday (picture 7).

Since it was extremely hot and very humid, Ann brought us to a hat and incense vendor so we could buy the traditional conical hats used by the locals to keep us safe from the sun and cool. We watched the women as they made hats and kneaded a large mound of cinnamon incense which was very interesting (picture 8).

Equipted With our 'cool' hats and decorated hand fan (pictures 9, 10), we proceeded to the Mausoleum of King Minh Mang. Of all the kings' tombs, this one was unique in that the king himself designed his last resting place. In life he was the second King of the Nguyen Dynasty who reigned over Vietnam for 20 years (1820-1840). This peaceful site was conveniently located on the left bank of the Perfume River only 12km from the city.

After our last stop at the Mausoleum it was time for a specially prepared lunch at a nearby pagoda run by female monks. The vegetarian lunch was beautifully prepared and delicious (picture 11). The monastery grounds were well maintained and included female Buddha statues amid the vegetables and gardens (picture 12).

We returned to the sanctuary of our air conditioned hotel room to rest just before the skies darkened and a thunderstorm began.

Once the rains stopped, we headed into town for dinner. Being Buddha's birthday, the streets were ablaze with people, lights, and traffic (picture 13). We followed a large crowd of locals to the Perfume River to watch the pulsating lights on the bridge and boats decorated with illuminated neon lights gently moved down the River (video).

Next morning we met our driver for the 3 hour road trip to the beach village of Hoi An. We passed through many villages along the way with locals drying mounds of rice on the main road (picture 14). Once in Danang (picture 15) we arrived at the fabulous Marble Mountain. With marble vendors everywhere we enjoyed the walk through this amazing site visiting the Tam Thai Pagoda, Vong Guang Da view point, Tam Ton Pagoda, Huyen Khong Cave, Linh Nham Cave and lookout to China Beach (pictures 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21).

We returned to our driver who safely delivered us to the beautiful and peaceful Hotel Golden Sands on the East (China) Sea. We quickly changed into bathing suits and enjoyed a swim in the 'longest pool' in Vietnam (picture 22). After a lovely moonlit dinner (picture 23) near the beach we returned to our room for some sleep.

Next day we were up early to catch a taxi into the Hoi An Ancient Town for our cooking class that started at 8.15 am. Our taxi was met by a Red Bridge staff person who escorted us and another couple to the Hai Cafe where the rest of the class waited. Once everyone was accounted for, we were broken into smaller groups (us and another couple, Jasmine and Peter from Sydney, AU who were on their honeymoon). Our assigned group leader, "T", led us through the windy, very busy and crowded market streets (pictures 24, 25, 26, 27) where she explained about Vietnamese spices, produce, livestock, fruits, and fish (caught both from the ocean and local river).

After the market we boarded the Red Bridge covered motor boat. As it puttered slowly down the Thu Bon River and interconnecting canals, we were able to gaze upon activities taking place along the shores (picture 28). Within 20 minutes we disembarked (picture at the Red Bridge Restaurant and Cooking School (picture 29).

We were all given a tour of the gardens where Vietnamese herbs and plants were discussed. After a deliciously fruity Red Bridge drink, our chef instructor went to work (picture 30) over the next 2 hours demonstrating and explaining each recipe presented - Seafood Salad with Vietnamese Herbs served in Half a Pineapple, Fresh Rice Paper rolls with shrimp (where we made the rice paper from scratch), Hoi An Pancakes with scrimp and squid, Vietnamese eggplant in clay pot (picture 31), food decorations, and sauces. After each demonstration we were asked to duplicate the dish on our cooking stoves/work areas (picture 32) and then eat our creations. Once the class was over we enjoyed a full lunch. Needless to say we were more than satisfied on so many levels.

At the conclusion of the class we took the boat back to town and stopped by Yaly, 'the best couture house for tailoring' to pick out fabrics for a new dress and skirt for Susan. Amazingly we were instructed to come back tomorrow by 11 am when they were to be completed and ready for a final fitting - amazing!!! So fast and priced so reasonably!

Since it was hot and humid with a constant warm breeze we gladly returned to the confines of our cool, air conditioned room to change and go to the beach for the rest of the afternoon. Evening was quietly spent with dinner again under the night sky and restful night sleep.

We enjoyed sleeping in and taking the hotel shuttle bus to the Hoi An Ancient Town for a dress/skirt fitting for Susan and some walking around. Per Quyhn's suggestion we ate lunch at a terrific, cute, funky restaurant - Mango Rooms - where we cooled down with iced towels and a deliciously spicy lunch of tempura shrimp with pepper/garlic sauce and 'Asian Sin' spiced beef with noodles. After lunch we returned to the hotel and beach for a terrific late afternoon. Evening was again pleasantly relaxing - dinner and some packing in preparation of our trip flight tomorrow to Ho Chi Minh City.

1 comment:

RFine said...

Hey luv,
Ive been thinking about you. Then I read your blog and realize you were just in one of my favorite places, Vietnam. I would love to connect, but dont have your personal email, so please reach out to me (rebeccaefine@yahoo.com).
Miss you.
Rebecca